DIY Concrete Outdoor Table: make your own high-end outdoor patio table from cedar and concrete for a fraction of the price of buying one.
I’ve always loved the look of concrete, so when I was looking for a new outdoor table for my patio I had to look for a concrete one. This DIY concrete table is so beautiful, and sturdy. It turned out so great. And if you’re an experienced DIYer you can make it yourself. It’s perfect for all my summer entertaining needs, and I’m excited to share with you the process of how to make one yourself.
We partnered with my brother-in-law Shaun who has his own business called Benjamin Tileworks, and with Concrete Countertop Solutions to make my concrete table dreams come to life.
I was inspired by the beautiful tables from Restoration Hardware. They are gorgeous looking, but they do come with a very high price tag as well. I asked Shaun if he thought a DIY version was a possibility and he was up for the challenge. He did not disappoint. Our version turned out to be gorgeous too, and at a fraction of the price.
Materials:
- 5 -4 x 4 x 8 cedar boards
- 3 -2 x 4 x 8 cedar boards
- LP adhesive
- exterior wood glue
- 12 -3 1/8″ structural GRK screws
- 6 -5 1/8″ structural GRK screws
- 2 -6″ structural GRK screws
- 5/8″ fir exterior grade plywood
- 80 grit sandpaper
- 120 grit sandpaper
- weathered oak wood stain
- 4 EuroForm square edges
- duct tape
- Euroform Z Clips
- #8 screws
- Fiber Mesh Reinforcement
- 5 bags White countertop mix
- Z Terra-Tint in charcoal
- Z Aqua-Thane M35 Sealer
How To Make The Wood Base
Our finished table is 84″ long x 40″ wide. The legs are 7″ in from the top of the table.
The 4 legs are 26 1/2″ long cut at a 10 degree angle at the top and the bottom. The legs are all connected with an “I” shaped cross piece at the bottom. The shorter pieces connecting the legs are 24″ long finished, cut at 28 1/2 to allow for the joinery- a mortice and tenon joint, held with PL adhesive and 6″ screws. The long base piece is 62 3/8″ finished, cut to 66″ long with joinery.
The angled cross pieces are 31 1/2″ finished, 33 1/2″ long with joinery. They have a mortice and tenon joint at the base and are screwed with one 5 1/8″ screws on each at the bottom, and two more on each at the top.
There are two 2 x 4 cedar boards that are 67 3/8″ long along the top, from leg to leg with a 3/8″ lap joint with 3 times 3 1/8″ screws at each joint into two more 2x 4 cedar boards that are 32 1/4″ long.
The exposed screws are capped with 5/8″ wood plugs, held with exterior wood glue.
Finishing The Wood Base
Once the base was all put together it was sanded with 80 grit sandpaper to get rid of the mill marks, and then finished by hand with 120 grit sandpaper. I stained it with 2 coats of Minwax’s Weathered Oak.
Next we added the base for the concrete top which is 5/8″ fir exterior grade plywood measuring 38″ x 82″ with chamfer edges done with a router and screwed in to the base with 3 1/8″ screws.
DIY Concrete Table Top
EuroForm Edges
To prepare the top for the concrete begin by cutting the EuroForm edges to fit the edges of the plywood base. We cut them with a mitre saw at a 45 degree angle, and screwed them into the plywood with 5/8″ screws. These cuts need to be very precise, so measure twice.
Next we used some duct tape on the outside edge of the corners to help hold everything firmly.
Fiber Mesh Reinforcement
Then we cut the fiber mesh reinforcement to fit with at least a 1″ space from the edge and without overlapping the mesh. Next we attached the clips to the bottom of the mesh, spacing them evenly and no more than a foot apart, and then screwing the clips holding the mesh into the plywood base.
Before pouring the concrete, be sure the the EuroForm edges are completely free of any dirt or debris the could end up in the concrete.
Pouring The Concrete
We put our table in place, and poured the concrete so that we won’t have to move the heavy table after it was made. We also took the time to level the table before pouring, since our patio was uneven.
To mix the concrete follow the instructions on the package which say to add 3 quarts of cold water to the concrete mix along with two scoops of the terra-tint charcoal to each batch of white concrete. And then mix thoroughly with a drill attachment for 3 minutes. When using the tint, you may find you have to just slightly increase the amount of water to achieve the right consistency in the wet concrete.
Take care to not pour your concrete on too hot or too cold of a day, and to not work in direct sunlight. Too hot conditions will cause the concrete to set up too quickly, and not give you enough time to work with it. As well the manufacturer sometimes suggests using plastic to cover the poured concrete as it sets or to wet cure to help reduce the risk of concrete curl which sometimes happens when the top of the concrete surface and the bottom dry at different rates.
Concrete Countertop Solutions has some excellent how-to videos on their website that are really helpful if you’re a visual learner -with lots of tricks and techniques.
We used 5 bags of concrete to make our table. Work the concrete into the mesh reinforcement and edges with a trowel. Finally use a straight edge along the top of the EuroForm edge to create a perfect level top. Then smooth the top and finish with a trowel. If you have an air bubbles, use the trowel edge to poke them and then level smooth.
Removing The EuroForm Edges
After the concrete had set hard overnight we removed the EuroForm edges. The edges snap easily away from the table, leaving a beautifully finished edge.
Finishing The Concrete
Additionally you can also sand down and polish the finished concrete table top and edge for an ultra smooth finish. We used a GFCI protected wet grinder to sand the top. We started with a 50 grit, followed by 200 grit for a smooth matte finish.
Sealing The Concrete
Lastly after the concrete has completely dried and cured you seal the table top with the Z Aqua-Thane M35 Sealer to protect your concrete against staining and weather. Mix the two parts according to the package instructions and apply with a lint free sponge applicator. Apply a second coat 4-8 hours after the first. Keep in mind the temperature restrictions for application, especially when using this product outside in the summer.
This table turned out so great. I love it.
I’m looking forward to many gatherings with friends and family here over many, many yeas.
Since we live in Canada, and it will be very cold and snowy here in the winter we’ll cover this table well with a tarp. It is very sturdy, and it should be fine being outdoors as long as it’s covered during the winter.
It’s also very heavy so it would be very difficult to move from the space.
Here’s to all the parties to come in this wonderful spot.
With a DIY Concrete Outdoor Table, life really is a party
More Summer Fun Inspiration
Looking for more Summer fun inspiration? We’ve teamed up with some of our favorite fellow hostesses who are sharing fun ways to celebrate Summer this year, which we’ve rounded up below. Head in with us this Summer, and be sure to check out their posts!
Carol and Marilyn of It’s More Than a Home are sharing their Chocolate Zucchini Bread
Lori of Giggle Living is sharing How to Style Simple Appetizers for Summer
Lori of Pop of Gold is sharing How to Throw a Chic Party with 99 Cent Streamers
Shannon and Jenna of The Busy Bee are sharing Summer Hostess Gift Ideas
Brittnie of Festive, Fancy & Frugal is sharing a DIY Summer Pineapple Stand
Christina of Sunshine Tulip is sharing How to Make a Faux Cake with a Cherry on Top
Bri of Parties With a Cause is sharing Surf Themed Party Ideas for Easy Entertaining
You might also like our DIY Concrete Side Tables here.
Also check out How To Refinish Your Veneer Table here.
You might also enjoy our Potager Garden Makeover here.
This post is sponsored by Concrete Counter Solutions and Benjamin Tileworks. As always, all opinions are my own. Thanks so much for supporting the brands that make Life is a Party possible.
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